Marinated in spiced yoghurt, Kashmiri chillies, and garlic, then roasted over roaring tandoor charcoal embers with charred edges.
Coat the chicken with the raw papaya paste and half the salt; rest 20 minutes.
Whisk the yogurt with ginger-garlic paste, Kashmiri chili powder, garam masala, lemon juice, mustard oil, and remaining salt; coat the chicken and marinate 2 hours.
Thread the chicken pieces onto skewers, leaving small gaps.
Grill over hot coals, basting with mustard oil and turning, until charred at the edges and cooked through.
Serve hot with onion rings, lime wedges, and kasundi or green chutney.