Rome's most revered pasta alchemy: ridged rigatoni enveloped in an impossibly creamy, peppery emulsion achieved solely from finely grated Pecorino Romano, freshly toasted peppercorns, and starchy pasta cooking water.
Crush the whole black peppercorns coarsely in a mortar and pestle. Toast the crushed pepper in a dry wide skillet over medium heat for 2 minutes until immensely fragrant and oils are released. Ladle in 100ml of boiling pasta water to stop the toasting and create a peppery broth.
Boil the rigatoni in a pot with less water than usual (just enough to cover), creating an extra-starchy cooking liquid. Cook until very al dente, about 2-3 minutes shy of package time.
In a heatproof bowl, mix the finely grated Pecorino Romano with 1-2 small ladles of warm (not boiling) starchy pasta water, whisking vigorously with a fork until a smooth, thick cheese paste (crema) forms without lumps or stringiness.
Transfer the drained rigatoni into the skillet with the pepper broth over low heat for 1 minute. Remove the skillet completely from the heat, let it cool for 30 seconds, then pour in the cheese paste. Stir and toss rapidly until the cheese melts into a velvety, clinging sauce that coats every ridge of pasta.