The quintessential pride of Amatrice and Rome: thick hollow bucatini tossed in a rich, glossy sauce of crisp cured pork jowl (guanciale), sweet San Marzano plum tomatoes, dry white wine, a prick of red chilli, and sharp Pecorino Romano.
Place the guanciale batons in a cold wide skillet over medium-low heat. Cook gently for 8-10 minutes until the fat renders out and the meat becomes golden and crispy on the outside while remaining tender inside. Pour in the white wine, let it evaporate completely, then remove half the crispy guanciale and reserve for garnish.
Add the chilli to the rendered fat in the pan, then pour in the hand-crushed tomatoes. Season with a small pinch of salt and simmer gently for 15 minutes until the sauce reduces, deepens in color, and turns glossy and fragrant.
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and salt generously. Drop in the bucatini and cook for 8-9 minutes until firm and al dente, reserving 100ml of starchy pasta cooking water before draining.
Transfer the hot drained bucatini straight into the simmering sauce. Toss vigorously over medium heat for 1 minute, splashing in pasta water as needed to create an emulsion. Remove from heat, fold in the grated Pecorino Romano, top with the reserved crispy guanciale, and serve immediately.